The first thing you notice when you unwrap a block of Bordier butter is its yellow, creamy surface. That — and its silky texture and savory flavor — make it a favorite among French chefs. “We no longer say, ‘I’m going to buy some butter,’” says Vincent Philippe, the head of cheese at Bordier. “People say, ‘I’m going to buy Bordier butter.’”
All of the milk that Bordier uses is sourced within a 100-kilometer radius of Brittany, France, where the company is located, and Bordier still churns its butter, which is a departure from how the majority of butter is made in France. Most French butter-makers use centrifuges, which is the easier way to mass-produce butter. “Churned butter makes up two to three percent of overall production,” says Philippe. “Otherwise, it’s mostly centrifuges that are used, which is a more industrial method that doesn’t allow the butter enough time to rest.”
Bordier also kneads the butter on a machine using a wooden table exposed to the air, which oxidizes the fat in the butter, giving it a silkier texture. “Currently, in France, we are the last to use this type of machine,” says Philippe.
Watch the full video to see how Bordier makes its different varieties of butter, including seaweed butter, yuzu butter, smoked salt butter, and more.